Obviously one could overlay the eave underside with a 1/4 inch thick hardi panel. Other nearby houses are using t111 (no groove) which is painted before being nailed down and it is holding up fine. If there is a source of information on building techniques for wet climates I would appreciate knowing it as I have never seen your method in print either. I did not add that I questioned the sales staff repeatedly on the suitability of the plywood before buying it and after it was delivered before using it.īeing from down south I have never seen plywood grow mold nor experienced two weeks of constant rain in august. I have never seen that done before but it looks like a good idea. One fellow even recomended a rubberized decking paint, another sealing the entire surface/ cracks with caulk first (using a squeege) then painting.ĭear Sir, Thanks for the input. One mentioned was Zinsser Peel Stop with Sherwin Williams exterior Duration paint as a top coat. To applying ForSite mold inhibitor silver containing clear coat, to using only latex primers that have elastic qualities. Many differing options have been presented from just wash it with a mold inhibitor then rinse and paint it with oil based primers, to using a shellac wood sealer, What is the best way to paint seal this as I do not want the pine ply to mold thru the paint checked areas either because the paint doesn't properly seal the checks up or because of new checks opening up in the future. Due to the delay in painting over the entire ply underside there are now fine checks/ hairline cracks in the face veneers. Per their recomendations I used bleach to remove this from most but not all of the plywood. Over the winter the high humidity in WA state allowed mold growth on the exposed underside of the pine ply and to a much lesser degree on the underside of some fir AC I used. I asked for the best AC ply wood available and not knowing any better used the pine plywood supplied by my local lumberyard. Of issue is the underside of the exposed eaves which are constructed of 3/4 inch plywood on top of 2x8 rafters with asphalt shingles over. The project has been delayed and went thru this last winter without painting. Any ideas?.ĭear Sirs, I have just finished siding a craftsman bungalow (self built for my wife and I), and am about to start painting. One fellow even recomended a rubberized decking paint, another sealing the entire surface/ cracks with caulk first (using a squeege) then painting. Many differing options have been presented from just wash it with a mold inhibitor then rinse and paint it with oil based primers, to using a shellac wood sealer, to applying ForSite mold inhibitor silver containing clear coat, to using only latex primers that have elastic qualities. What is the best way to paint seal this as I do not want the pine ply to mold thru the paint checked areas either because the paint doesn’t properly seal the checks up or because of new checks opening up in the future. ![]() Of issue is the underside of the exposed eaves which are constructed of 3/4 inch plywood on top of 2×8 rafters with asphalt shingles over. Dear Sirs, I have just finished siding a craftsman bungalow (self built for my wife and I), and am about to start painting.
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